I need a chiller

[6LINE]

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to buy a chiller for the best price? 1/4 HP for a 150Gallon, 10 degree+ pulldown.

Thanks

[NaCl_H2O]

I have had two Pacific Coast Imports inline chillers, a 1/4 HP and now a 1HP, very pleased with them both. AlexWolf now has the 1/4, so ask him what he thinks of it too.

Got them both from Premium Aquatics.

[::pete::]

Wanna borrow my wife :lol :D

[Richard]

I've recently been researching chillers for a customer. From the ones I looked at the Current USA Prime chillers had the highest BTU per amp. Also from what I've been told it is better to get the 1/3 hp chiller since it does not cost much more and will ultimately save you more money in electricity.

[6LINE]

Thanks Pete, think she could draw it down 10 degrees? :)

I don't know why i said 1/4 HP, i have been thinking 1/3 all this time.
Thanks for the replies, i will take ya'lls advice

[NaCl_H2O]

Wanna borrow my wife :lol :D

I think he needs specs: BTU, HP, etc., and a picture would be nice ;)

[6LINE]

How about a 1/2 HP Aqua Medic Titan? Would that be overkill? or would it being a 1/2HP mean that it would not run as much?

[NaCl_H2O]

Check the specs, I think the Aqua Medic is the brand I looked at that has a lower BTU rating per HP than all the other makes ... but I'm not sure?

[6LINE]

I can't find anywhere that says what the BTU's are. but i will keep looking. PA has these specs,

Titan 1500
1/2HP
Electric Power 375 Watt
Cooling power (watts) 790 watt

[Richard]

Yeah the AquaMedic's don't mention BTU's probably because they have less cooling power than the others. Then again they use about half the amps of the others.

[Richard]

Oh, just saw the cooling power - 790 watts. To convert from watts to BTU/Hour multiply by 3.413. So that would give it 2696 BTU.

Hopefully that is correct. I know this conversion because I'm really smart or because Google is cool ;) . If it's wrong then Google sucks.

[6LINE]

Well, this just proves that you are smarter than me because i didn't know to go and do a Google search. That seems like a pretty low BTU. I don't know.:(. I would assume that more BTU's, and lower watts, would make for a more efficient operation. That just makes sense. Thanks Richard.

[NaCl_H2O]

BTU's is a measure of the cooling capacity of the chiller ("10 deg pulldown for 180g, etc."). The "Pulldown" capability advertised by all the chiller mfgs is BS, how much it can pull down your xxxg tank depends on how much energy you are pumping into the water (Halides, pump motors, etc.).

Current & Amps (110v @ 10A) really is not an indication either - the heat exchanger design plays a big role in the chiller's efficiency.

If they don't advertise BTUs, call and ask - that is really the best indication of chiling capacity.

[StephenA]

Wanna borrow my wife :lol :D

My wife would be a good heater with the amout of hot air that comes from her ;)

Keep up posted on what you do, I'll be getting a chiller this summer for my 120, it hit 84 last fall with my new lights.

[NaCl_H2O]

My wife would be a good heater with the amout of hot air that comes from her ;)

Most are dual function, it is the controller that is tricky ;)

[6LINE]

I will keep ya'll posted. I need to something soon though. My newly setup tank is hitting 86+. I just have LR, 2 damsels, and some Zoa's. Think the Zoa's will be OK? they are opening fine and all.

[NaCl_H2O]

I think you are OK at 86. How low does it go at night? The 24 Hr fluctuation is at least, maybe even more, important that the high. If you are swinging from 78-86+ in 24 hours, you might want to reduce your photoperiod a little to keep the high down a little. Or maybe even on/off twice a day to spread out the heat a little. But, you should e OK with zoas & damsels.

Good luck on selecting a chiler, it is a major investment, so take your time if you can.

A note on chillers that most forget to consider:
1) They really need a dedicated 110v circuit, just like a window AC unit
2) The heat they remove from the water gets converted to hot air coming off the coils (just like a window AC unit) - so they need lots of ventilation, and if possible an exhaust to the outside.
3) Pay close attention to the Mfgs flow rate recomendations, to low of a flow causes the chiller to short cycle, to high and ther isn't enough contact time with the heat exchanger.

BTW - The 1/4HP Pacific Coast I had is a diffferent "style" than the 1HP I have now. I think the larger PC chillers (1/2 HP and up) are better quality, and have a better integrated temp controller IMO.

Let us know what you get?

[6LINE]

I haven't payed attention to the temp in the AM. I haven't gotten a digital temp guage. But i think it stays fairly steady, may drop to 82 or around there.

I have the pump plumbed through the wall to the garage, i guess i could plumb the chiller through the wall as well. I will have the ballasts in the garage as well. So i am keeping the HOT equipment away from the tank at least. So the main heat producer is the 800 watts of MH lighting. And you are correct with the major investment part. Wow, they are pricey. Thanks for all the info, and if you think of any other info, JLMK.


Thanks

[6LINE]

Will running a chiller help prevent some of the evaperation that occurs as well? As stated above, I have most of my heat producing equipment out in the garage as to not heat the room up.

[NaCl_H2O]

Will running a chiller help prevent some of the evaperation that occurs as well?

No, I don;t thinks so. Evaporation is really a function of the humidity level in the room, amount of water surface in contact with the air, and air movement across the water surface. I imagine temp does factor in, but probably not significantly?

[captexas]

I have a 75g tank with 800watts of halides plus another 220watts of VHO which produce a lot of heat. I added two 5in. fans to the canopy and that helped drop the temp alittle, but I ended up putting a chiller on the tank to keep the temp down to 80. I haven't figured out what I'm going to do on the 240g tank yet.

Also, I would keep an eye on your temp in the morning. Livestock can be aclimated somewhat to the warmer temps you have now, but not the temperature swings that can occur overnight. Having a good temperature controller is important when using a chiller. I would recommend a dual controller to run your chiller and heater. It's also good to check your temps occasionally with a regular thermometer to make sure any digital thermometer and/or temp. controllers are correct. I had a digital temp. sensor that seemed to work fine for awhile, but when I tested it, I found that it's readings were about 6 to 8 degrees too low!

[6LINE]

Good points Cap. Does anyone know who carrys the digital thermometers in SA? Probably go out and find one tomorrow.As far as the chiller, i am still stuck on which one to go with. Big decision, but i will take the time and do it right.

[6LINE]

Well, i didn't get a digital temp guage, but i got a glass thermometer, and an 8" fan pointing in the top of the canopy. And to my surprise, it is sitting at 80 degrees steady. The thermometer i was using was just one of those that sticks to the outsideof the glass. Don't think it was working right. But who knows. I am sure the summer heat will warrant a chiller.

[NaCl_H2O]

Actually 80 isn't bad at all, and you are probably getting less evaporative cooling today than you will in the summer when your home AC is running all day. Give it some time, you might get by with the fan and a good thermometer!

[6LINE]

"in the summer when your home AC is running all day"

That is what i am affraid of, lol. I don't want a $300/mo. Electric bill. :(

[eric]

I have a hard time trusting almost any one thermometer, much less one of those that sticks on the side of the tank. You can get a digital one with a probe that can be set in the sump (or elsewhere) at Radio Shack. I don't remember exactly, but moderately cheap ($10?)

I imagine those will last a few months at least, but those probes always seem to go haywire in my experience - you know when it says the tank is 151F

Or go with the old Tandem CPU protocol, use three; At least two should agree at all times or it decides to call out a service alarm.

[NaCl_H2O]

That is what i am affraid of, lol. I don't want a $300/mo. Electric bill. :(

Sorry, I'll explain ... In SA in the winter months your AC rarely runs, and the heater runs very little too. The AC removes humididty from the air, and the evaporative cooling from the fan on your tank becomes MUCH more effective in the summer when the AC is keping the humididty in your house lower.

That $300 elec bill is probably more likely due to how many teenagers are in your house than how many MH you have running ;)

[6LINE]

Thanks for clarifying :). And as far as the AC removing the humidity, will this have any kind of negative effect on the unit itself?

[StephenA]

That is what i am affraid of, lol. I don't want a $300/mo. Electric bill.


Several of us in Austin had $400+ Electric Bills!!! last summer.

[StephenA]

Excuse me, mine was over $500

http://www.maast.org/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=6956&post days=0&postorder=asc&highlight=electric+bill&start =30

[captexas]

I think we need to start a MAAST Electric Power Plant Co-Op! :)

[6LINE]

Sounds like a good idea captexas :).

I am still planning on venting the hot/humid air from the hood out of the house somehow. I just haven't figured what type of exhaust fan to use. Any suggestions on this?

[Ram_Puppy]

doesn't blake hold the record? :)

[brewercm]

Excuse me, mine was over $500

You guys are starting to worry me now. I just bought a house with a pool and hot tub, plus the 180 that's going in.

Blake, I'm coming after than new record. :sick