I need some help!!!!!!!!!

[hippie316]

HEY I REALLY NEED SOME HELP!!!!
I HAVE A 70 GALLON TANK THAT HAS BEEN SET UP FOR ABOUT 8 MONTHS ALL OF A SUDDEN I HAVE THIS ALGAE GROWING ON THE SAND BED AND ON THE ROCKS. IT IS A VERY DARK PURPLE I WOULD ALMOST SAY IT IS BLACK. IT IS VERY STRINGIE AND IT STARTED OUT ON THE ROCKS AND NOW IT IS EVERY WHERE ALSO THERE IS THESE GREEN SPOTS ALSO FORMING ON THE SAND BED. IT SEEMS LIKE IT IS OUT OF CONTROL. AND I REALLY DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO. ANY SUGGETIONS?

[Voodoo]

9wt UV Steralizer worked for me.

[hippie316]

WHAT DOES A UV STERILIZER DO?

[RobertG]

Water changes & flow. It would help to know your water parameters. Check your phosphates.

[hippie316]

WHAT IS PHOSPHATES? HOW DO CHECK FOR THAT IS THERE A TEST?

[::pete::]

As RobertG said post your tank parameters, what water are you using, have you made any changes lately ... ect. A picture would help too.

[Brett Wilson]

Please do not use capslock, it looks like you are yelling.

[GaryP]

Hippie,

Your outbreak is probably the result of an increase in nutrients, especially phosphates. Here are a few suggestions:

1. Run activated carbon and a phosphate absorber. Change these weekly.

2. Incerease the water changes cycles. Do 5-10% water changes weekly until the hair algae clears up.

3. Increase skimming as much as possible.

4. If you aren't already using RO water for make-up and water changes, start. If you are using RO, check the conductivity of your RO water. You may need to change your filters and/or membrane.

5. Increase the number of algae grazers in your tank, especially snails and small hermits such as blue or red legs.

6. Reduce the size of your feedings. Go to smaller feedings a few times of days. This is better for fish anyway.

Hope that helps,
Gary

[GaryP]

Phosphates are a nutrient that builds up in a tank as a result of lack of nutrient export.

Export can be by skimming, phosphate/carbon scrubbing, water changes, or the use of a refugium.

In my opinion a UV sterilizers is a means of treating the symptoms but not the disease. The disease is a decrease in water quality. The algae growth is a symptom of that water quality issue. Besides, a UV sterilizer can kill the good stuff in the water as well as te bad. A lot of critters in your tank are feeding on the things the sterilizer is killing.

Gary

[RobertG]

Please do not use capslock, it looks like you are yelling.

Yelling hurts, It just says Panic. In this hobby it is easy to PANIC! It really helps to not. Saves me Money!

Phosphates are the main cause for algae blooms. You can buy a test for this also.

A UV Sterlizer is a peice of equipment that allows water to flow around a UV bulb. This kills anything that passes through the light. I have one also it seems to help my setup.

What kind of lighting do you have? How long do the lights run? Water parameters: PH, Ammonia, Nitrates, DKH, Calcium

Then we might be of help. A Pic would be helpful.

[GaryP]

Phosphate test kits can be a bit tricky. Here's why:

Without going into a lot of chemistry there are two kinds of phosphates. A lot of folks eyes start to glaze over when I start lecturing on water chemistry. One kind of phosphate is detected by a test kit, another kind isn't. There is not really such a thing as "good phosphates." While a very small amount is required in your tank, this level is practically zero (about .02 ppm). Fish and other critter eat foods and excrete the phophates contained in them as phosphates. Most of what is excreted is not detected.

Gary

[rocketeer]

Correct me if I'm wrong, testing for phosphates will usually come up with a low reading even in an algae bloom. The reason is that the algae takes up the phosphates.

You need to make sure that you're not getting them into your tank to begin with. The last time I had a big bloom it was because my RO/DI unit got old. Since then I bought an electronic conductivity meter. If you're local I'd be happy to check your makeup water with it. PM me. I'm in north central SA. I have a phosphate test kit also but I don't think you'll find much still free in your water. As the algae dies it will be re-released back into the system I guess. So do water changes.

Jack

[GaryP]

Jack,

You are partially correct. As I said in my previous post a lot of phosphates are not detectable with a test kit. I used to work for a company that sold phosphates for water treatment so we were very interested in testing for them. You have to actually boil the sample in acid to detect organic (meta) phosphates. That's not a technique I would sugest for most hobbyists. :)

The problem with only doing water changes to reduce phosphates is that you are chasing a moving target. Not only are you continuing to add phosphates in the form of food and possibly water, water changes only remove a small amount of phosphate.

For example, if you have .1 ppm phosphate and you do a 10% water change, you have only reduced it to .09 ppm. By the time you get ready to do another water change you are probably back up to the original .10 ppm again.

Gary

[NaCl_H2O]

As others said, posting water parameters, equipment, etc. would help?

You said your tank has been up for 8 months - what type of lights are you using? Have you ever changed the bulbs? 8 months is about right for some lights to degrade, which could be adding to the algae growth - but most likely a water quality issue too?

[GaryP]

Steve,

Thanks for mentioning the lights. I forgot that one. Old bulbs have a tendency to shift spectrum to the red side. That enourages some pest algaes and discourages growth of the "good" algaes like coraline.

Gary

[ratboy]

Do you have a picture of the algae? It sounds more to me like you have a cyanobacteria outbreak (red-maroon slime mainly on sand in areas of low flow). This is very common in new tanks and ive had the best luck using chemiclean to treat the tank. It is a white powder that oxidizes the cyano and (if your husbandry is up to par) will kill the cyano and it probably wont return. You should be able to find it at most LFS.

-ERik

[falcam7]

Hippie316,

I found this information in one of my friend's website in the Dallas-Forth Worth Marine Aquarium Society.

Marc took the picture below. He had this stuff, in his tank.

Does it looks like the picture below?



Photo by Marc Levenson
One of the dreaded algaes we see in our tanks is called "Red Slime Algae" but it is actually Cyano bacteria. Typical solutions: Reduce Nitrates & Phosphates; increase flow; siphon out all you can see with airline tubing. Use a turkey baster to blast this off of sensitive corals, because it will smother them to death. I've never used any chemical "solutions" and usually have it beat in about 3 weeks time.



My two cents

Thanks

[matt]

Hippie;

You should probably get this book: "The coral reef aquarium" by Ron Shimek. It's a small book with lots of clear answers to basic questions about reefkeeping. Get it, read it, then I bet you'll have some answers to your questions, and a better ability to sort out the confusing information you get from various sources, and even a better understanding of what kind of questons to ask and how to ask them. For instance, you have not mentioned the most important factor in the health of your tank, which is, what do you have in there as far as livestock?

Good luck, and happy reading!