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NaCl_H2O
Tue, 14th Sep 2004, 10:57 PM
I have an EHEIM 1262 I plan to connect as an external pump with PVC. The in/out conections are hose barbs with a strange threaded collar :? below the barb. The barb fitting can be removed to expose a 3/4" thread, but a MPT PVC adapter seems to bottom out before the threads are tight?

Has anyone connected one of these pumps externally? Am I missing an "Optional" part (adapter) from EHEIM?

Thx - Steve

NaCl_H2O
Thu, 16th Sep 2004, 05:55 PM
bump ... anybody?

matt
Fri, 17th Sep 2004, 01:10 PM
I don't know about this pump specifically, but I used the 1250 on reactors quite a bit and always plumbed them with PVC. So I can tell you how i did it on those; maybe the 1262 is similar. As far as the output goes, if you remove the hose barb you'll see there's an o-ring on it, which means that the female threads in the pump body are not meant to seal; that's what the o-ring is for. There should be some male threads on the outside base of the hose barb with the barb in place. (Usually there's a plastic ring on those threads which you remove) You can get a PVC threaded bushing on those, then attach your threaded female coupler to that; that leaves you with female PVC threads for your plumbing. So you leave the hose barb in place and set up your PVC conections outside of it. Make sense?

The input is trickier. What I did was remove the hose barb from the "cap" that fits into the pump and holds the impeller in place. To do that, you remove the cap (There are some plastic parts which hold it in place) then you can screw out the hose barb. At that point you can get a PVC nipple in the female threads of the cap; use teflon tape and you must get it in there tight while the cap is out and the impeller is not held in place. Then you attach one side of a union to the nipple, again while the whole thing is out. Once that stuff is on and tight, you can replace the cap, installing the impeller. You might have to leave off the silver plastic "guard" that covers that part of the pump. Since the cap spins sort of freely on the plastic clips that hold it onto the pump body, you have to put that side of the PVC union on first. Okay, once it's all together, you have half a union sticking out the the input of the pump and you can attach your plumbing with the other half of the union. On the output side, you have female threads in the coupler above the area of the hose barb (the barb is still installed inside the coupler) so you put a PVC nipple in there and a union on it. Finished!

NaCl_H2O
Fri, 17th Sep 2004, 10:43 PM
Matt, thanks for the reply! Apparently the 1262 is similar cuz your insructions make sense :grin: ... I think I follow, but have a few questions.

Output side: The outside threads on the output are an odd size (metric pipe thread?) and a 3/4" PVC female thread "catches" only about the bottom third of the threads, but does get nice & tight. Is this what you experienced, and did it result in a good water tight seal? Maybe lots of teflon tape for good measure, and maybe a dab of PVC glue where the PVC coupler contacts the top of the barb "housing"?

Input side: this "Barb" fitting also contains an "O" ring, but a 3/4" MPT PVC snugs up tight against the pump "Cap" (Threads don't bottom out!). Again, with tape were you able to achive a water tight fitting.

Thanks for the help - Steve!

matt
Sat, 18th Sep 2004, 10:10 AM
I don't really have any more info for you, except I think you can get a good fit on the input without the o-ring, using tape, as long as you tighten the nipple while the cap is out. I don't have any idea about your situation with the output side.

Good luck!