(UPDATE) Another Chiller Thread!

[NaCl_H2O]

OK, I have a wild idea on a way to add to the chilling capacity of my large system I am setting up. I am planning plenty of fans to cool the lighting, etc. with timers, dimer controls, and temp sensors. I also have a 1/3hp Pacific Coast chiller - but that's not going to handle my ~800g system!

So here is the idea: I have installed a 10,000 BTU window A/C in the aquarium room to help overcome the added heat & humididty. I was thinking that I could pump water through a few lengths of 19mm (3/4") glass tubing, and mount the glass tubing directly in front of the A/C output. I haven't worked out all the plumbing details, but was thinking I could get at least four 12-18" lengths of glass tubing positioned in the cold air flow.

Any opinions if this would be an effective heat exchanger? Or is this really a stupid idea?

I may make a simple test with one make shift tube to see if I can cool down a decent amount of water.

So go ahead ... tell me what you think :roll:

- Steve

[BA]

interesting idea...well if you had enough tubes and a slow enough flow i think it might work...would be a LOT of tubing tho for a 800gallons set-up,lol....if you do make it, definetely tell me, i'd like to go see it...

[Nano_Steve]

id think titanium tubing would be better. isnt titanium a better conductor of heat than glass is? other than that sounds like youd kill 2 birds with one stone! awesome idea! keep us all posted for sure!

-steve

[BA]

but titanium tubing for a set-up that big is going to cost a lot....but ya titanium would be the way to go

[NaCl_H2O]

id think titanium tubing would be better. isnt titanium a better conductor of heat than glass is? other than that sounds like youd kill 2 birds with one stone! awesome idea! keep us all posted for sure!

-steve

I can pick up Pyrex lab quaity glass tubing at Analytical Scientific (Bandera Road) for about $2/foot ... I think titanium is just a tad bit more expensive! I think I can use 1/2" PVC and 3/4" ID rubber tubing to make a manifold or whatever.

[Brett Wilson]

There is a DIY chiller someone made by re-routing the condensor coils into their aquarium (And using a titanium heat exchanger).
I don't think the glass method would be very effective for a system of that capacity.

Search Reefcentral.com for DIY chiller.
-Brett

[prof]

In effect you will be creating a heater... The warm water running in front of the AC will warm the air as the water cools. You might be negating your efforts by warming the room. I am sure that it will create a temperature change but I doubt it would be efficient enough to be worth it.

I would think that a single fan and evaporation on a remote tank would be much more benificial. Adding unlit, unheated water volume is, IMO, the cheapest way to cool a system. For example, a flow through refugium on a reverse lighting scheme. This would help balance the tank temperatures during the night and day cycles of the tank.

[dan]

i'v heard of people buying a deep freezer and running 100 to 200 foot of 1'' hose in the freezer. the bigger the freezer the more hose. the hose never freezes because warm water is always passing though. has any body out there ever seen this?

[brewercm]

I've seen it done in a refridgerator. The hose is coiled up into a large container of water that is kept in the refridgerator. They drilled two holes into the side of the fridge for the inlet and outlet of the hose to go and just sealed it off, you could probably use any sealant to do this and I'd seal from both inside and outside.

[NaCl_H2O]

Dave, you make a very valid point! I'll have lots of capacity in my fuge, grow out tank & sumps so I hope heat will be manageable - as you suggested.

If I give the glass tube a try, I'll post the results.

[wkopplin]

I've seen it done in a refridgerator. The hose is coiled up into a large container of water that is kept in the refridgerator. They drilled two holes into the side of the fridge for the inlet and outlet of the hose to go and just sealed it off, you could probably use any sealant to do this and I'd seal from both inside and outside.

I helped to make a keg machine like that one time. I think that after all the experimentation, it might be cheaper to just buy a chiller.

[Gator]

i agree with koplin

[NaCl_H2O]

For those that were interested ... I did a little experiment this weekend. Took a 2' section of glass tubing and hooked it up to about 100g of 78 deg water with a Mag5 pumping water around. I hung the glass in front of my 10,000 BTU AC and ran it "FULL BLAST" for an hour.

Temperature change of the 100g of water was 0.2 degF
Temperature change of the air in the room was FRIGIN COLD :o

I think this one can be chaulked up to "Bad Idea"

Thanks for the input!!

- Steve

[JimD]

The problem was the Mag 5, you'd need much slower flow to be anywhere near effective. Try a paristaltic pump or similar...

[::pete::]

I agree with Jim, its not that the idea is bad, but the water isnt sitting in front of the AC long enough. What about coiled plastic tubing along with the suggested pump?

[NaCl_H2O]

Forgot to mention that the MAG5 was driving a closed loop on my RO/DI tanks (just put together for my new system), and I ran the "Chiller" tube of an auxilary outlet with a valve I had turned WAY DOWN. Maybe I'll try again someday with more tubes (surface area).

Pete - I don't think the plastic tubing would exchange enough heat. The obvious heat exchanger would be a "Real" heat exchanger - Like a small radiator, but I wouldn't trust a stainless steel one, and I have never seen a reasoanble priced Titanium exchanger.

To make this idea work I think I would need 10-20 galss tubes enclosed in a duct box and the return air directed back to the A/C intake.

[RobertG]

I kicked all these ideas around, I just ****ed away time. How big is your fishroom? I was using a 5K BTU window unit & it sucked. My tank would sit at about 82-83, I did not like this because summer had'nt even hit yet. I said screw it, I dont want to buy a 1200.00 chiller. I went to HD & picked up a 18K BTU window unit, hooked it up & the tank has not gone over 79. I keep the elec. thermostat at 73. This keeps the tank right so far. I run my fuge on a reverse photo period, doing this I think keeps it stable.
My system is right at 300G. The tankroom is about 110Sqft.

Also the room is nice & comfy. If I had to sleep in there I would be very comfortable. So far I hav'nt had to! :-D The wife is being nice & has'nt kicked me outta bed; YET!!!

My point, Sorry. Try the A/C by itself first, that is alot of water. I dont feel you will have any heat issues. I dont.

[NaCl_H2O]

I have a 10K BTU AC unit and the room is about 100 sf, but won't be fully closed off from the rest of the house ... but I can point the AC right at the sump. I plan on running the fuge and possibly grow out tank on a reverse photo period. I have a 1/4HP chiller from my 125g that will also help.

I think you are right, the AC combined with fans across the sump(s) and exausts for lights should (I HOPE!) do the trick.

The DIY chiller was mostly just a curiosity, and my "Plan B", if needed!

[Tim Marvin]

If you keep the room around 76 and have a fan blowing directly onto the water, you probably won't need any more chilling. An auto top-off will be a MUST though.