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texasranchers
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 02:58 PM
I am overlooking something, probably the basics that I was taught.
55 gal-48X13X20
Protein Skimmer and HOT filter(sump is in the works)
75 lbs rock/Aragamax, sugar sized for swallow sand beds
leathers, ssp, xenia, etc
Clarkii, Coral Beauty Angel, Fancy Green Star
t.Crocea Clam (1)
snails, don't know how many, they're too fast to count
78 degress generally
ph 8.2
nitrates, between 0-5.0 ppm
nitrites, 0-0.25 ppm
ammonia, 0-.025 ppm
top off water every day

We added our new lights and we're having trouble with the tank looking
dirty. Something is always on the glass. Sometimes it seems the water is tinted. Brown on sand and green on back wall.

Our lights consists of:
1-MH 250w 20k Radium, 1-MH 250w 10k 50/50 white, 2-VHO 110w each super actinic, we have two fans. Installed 7 " above tank in a wood canopy.

Please help. My hands are getting scaly and turning green.

wkopplin
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 03:11 PM
Did you use RO/DI water or tap water? Sounds like some sort of algae bloom that will eventually clear itself up. As far as your hands go, get some good gloves and wear them. I had the same problem and the gloves took care of it although mine did not turn green.

If all of your fish are fine, make sure the protein skimmer is working correctly, run some carbon through the HOT and see if that clears it up.

texasranchers
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 03:22 PM
I was concerned about the skimmer and took it apart and cleaned it with water. This gave me a chance to check the container, hoses, pump, etc. It was dirtier than I normally like it but not real bad.
I use tap water...haven't had enough courage to mention a RO/DI unit yet.(We only bought the lights about 4 weeks ago)
Maybe I was exaggerating about the green hands part. Thanks for some pointers.

z28pwr
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 03:25 PM
Have you tested your phosphate level ?

texasranchers
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 03:27 PM
No, I will check and see if I have a test for that. A friend was moving and gave us a bunch of tests, etc.

wkopplin
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 03:27 PM
Might be the tap water adding some extra nutrients for an algae bloom. It will probably clear itself up. Go a little lighter on the feeding for a few days. If that does not work, let us know and some of the more experienced reefers can chime in.

texasranchers
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 03:32 PM
Thanks for the input. I did find a phosphate test. I'll go ahead and do that one.

texasranchers
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 03:51 PM
The phosphate test shows 0.2-0.4 mg

JimD
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 03:58 PM
Do yourself and favor and test the tap water, I can almost assure you thats the problem. Your nitrates, nitrites and ammonia should ALL be at zero... Chances are you wont detect any phosphates as the algae consumes it as soon as its available...

brewercm
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 04:28 PM
Just for info, I recently bought a RO/DI unit from these guys (aquasafecanada) off of ebay and it was only 94.50 shipped for a 75 GPD unit. Well worth it as soon as you can get one. By the way they will also offer to add a case of extra pre-filters or DI filters for an additional $50 per case no additional shipping if you buy from them at the same time.
Good luck, I fought algae breakouts until I finally started lugging large containers of RO water back and forth then just bought the thing since I'm unable to lug containers any more.

texasranchers
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 05:14 PM
JimD, I really don't want to test our water...I would rather not know what is in it.

brewercm, I will let hubby know. I just feel bad that I thought we would have such an attractive tank with the new lights and boom.

This is a continuing hobby.

dan
Wed, 31st Mar 2004, 05:26 PM
once you get everything where it should be you'll have that attractive tank. just hang in there. it's a slow process but it will come around. like everyone is saying you probably need a RO/DI unite

brewercm
Thu, 1st Apr 2004, 08:45 AM
It's definately a continuing process. I know my wife thinks I spend way too much at times, but still less than when I was playing golf a lot.
By the way the new lights probably added to the algae take off and it may start to drop off a bit as the whole system matures with the new lights. I know mine did that once I upgraded to the halides and still have to clean the glass every day but the rest of the algae has gone away.

texasranchers
Thu, 1st Apr 2004, 10:14 AM
That is so funny. Had to call hubby at work and tell him about the golf thing. I really appreciate all the input on our situation. Gave me some new avenues to think on and old ones to rethink.

DeletedAccount
Thu, 1st Apr 2004, 10:51 AM
Every time that I change lights from old worn out to new bulbs or PC to MH I get an algae and diatom bloom. It goes away on its own.

texasranchers
Thu, 1st Apr 2004, 03:23 PM
I like that idea. 'It goes away on its own.'

BIGBIRD123
Thu, 1st Apr 2004, 09:41 PM
I know what your talking about. When I changed to my 30g sumpand 900w MH, I had an aggressive algae bloom and I'm still battling it now. The thing that is helping is I reduced my lighting and changed to a water deionizer which takes out all the phosphates and leaves some of the good minerals. My algae is going away and I can actually see some of my corals without scrubbing. I still have to scrub regularly but not with a 4" grinder.....

Steve

Tim Marvin
Thu, 1st Apr 2004, 10:03 PM
Who makes the 900 watt halide? That is some light! Is it a 1,000 watter? Or 2-250's and 1-400?

GaryP
Thu, 1st Apr 2004, 10:16 PM
TexasRancher,

What is your source of water in San Angelo? Is it well or surface water? I lived in W. TX and know that they have totally different water than the Edwards Aquifer water most of us have. I could hardly drink it, much less give it to my tanks. The only good thing about it was that it was loaded with tons of fluoride. If its surface water it would make since that it contains a lot of phosphate.

In either case, I think you need to make sure your skimmer is working properly and is cleaned at least once a week. I agree with the earlier comment about running carbon as well. Make sure to change the carbon frequently as well. In the long run you really do need to get an RO unit. Its an investment that will pay for itself in the long run.

Gary

Instar
Thu, 1st Apr 2004, 10:40 PM
I've had the same experience when boosting lights or changing bulbs. Algae blooms till the pods, coraline and snails catch up. Agree with the carbon and the advice to get an RO. A little algae won't hurt your filter feeders as they like all the glass scraping you're doing. A set of glass cleaning magnets will save your hands a lot. Many if not most of us use them regularly.

BIGBIRD123
Thu, 1st Apr 2004, 11:03 PM
I'm sorry I didn't explain...(1) 400w 10k (2) 250w 20k but it did help to reduce them and use the deionizer.

Henry
Fri, 2nd Apr 2004, 12:02 AM
I second most of the comments that have been given, except the reduction in feeding. Unless you are just putting tons of food into the tank. The fish need to eat.

GaryP
Fri, 2nd Apr 2004, 08:33 AM
I consider cleaning the glass as free food for my clams and other filter feeders. Although I have heard some discussion about that. Some folks seem to think the scraped algae is the wrong size for clams. All I know is my clams seem to be doing very well without using anything like DT's. It's certainly a lot cheaper.

Gary

texasranchers
Fri, 2nd Apr 2004, 08:44 AM
GaryP, it is ground water.
I'm still doing the water changes and magnet cleaning. I think I can almost see Clarkii.
Thanks again to all.

GaryP
Fri, 2nd Apr 2004, 09:06 AM
Good luck and let us know if we can be of further help. We're always here for you.

Gary