View Full Version : Plumbing Tank
RobertG
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 12:10 AM
Guys it's slowly coming together. Here's my thought on how this will work. I'm open for suggestions Please.
One drain to dump in Fuge. The fuge will overflow into the sump.( 35G )
I plan on using a Mag 24 on the return. I plan to plumb it to both return lines. Also have tee'd off for Cal Reac. Will put a couple tees extra ( just in case) I add anything later. I have used Quick connect valve for the reactor line . Reduce to 1/4 from 3/4. I plan to have a valve to return to the sump for excess GPH.
2nd drain straight to sump. Should I run this pump internal or external? Anyone using this? Input on Db level ( requested ) My skimmer will be in sump. Along with Biofilter setup from my old tank. I plan the return pump to be on the far right side of the tank here. I think I should have enough GPH here to do so. I have Tunze Streams for circulation in main tank. One on each side facing each other. Installing Multi controller for them as well.
How many heaters should I need ? Tank will have (3) 250 Double ended MH for now. Also with (4) 96w PC's Attinic. Fuge I plan to use a T5 Bulb over it Think its 10K . I have a 32 w PC strip to use also. How much light is suff. for fuge? :? Heard of big MH over it, for fuge is it needed?
Any thoughts respected & appreciated.
greatbarrier52
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 01:19 AM
Well since you siad that you are open to suggestions. STOP NOW and donate your set up to me. :lol2: Very Very clean plumbing. NICE
matt
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 02:12 AM
One detail; instead of a straight quick disconnect fitting for the reactor line, get one that has a ball valve in it. They sell them at HD in the icemaker sections. That way you can shut off flow to the reactor if you want, as well as regulate the flow to the reactor.
RobertG
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 02:23 AM
I am using this straight guy to reduce the line from 3/4. I have the quick connect valve. One thing about them have you seen many leak? Will this be to much GPH for the reactor?
manny
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 03:18 AM
For the fuge, I've always seen people just put a cheap flourescent light over. They sell some at Wal-Mart for like 10 bucks I think
wkopplin
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 09:15 AM
One word : Unions. Use them in your plumbing so you can quickly and easily disconnect a part without having to tear down the whole system. Put a ball valve before the union so it can be completely shut down.
Use the unions on your extra plumbing outlets you mentioned. Put a piece of pvc in the open end of the union and cap it. Get a second union when you are ready to use that port and simply unscrew the capped piece and screw in the new piece. That is what I did on my system and it was easy.
You are welcome to check out the plumbing job I did. I can pretty well guaranty that I ran across every issue that you can find when it comes to plumbing a system.
greatbarrier52
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 12:03 PM
Yup, Unions and ball valves make life a lot easier. True Unions are real nice also, but acn get expensive.
RobertG
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 12:24 PM
I have Unions, Thought Not to use them, this is not glued yetso will add them in Thanks. Put them on every thing you say.
wkopplin
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 03:30 PM
Put them wherever you think you might have to remove something for cleaning, leaks, etc. Especially place them in front of and behind pumps.
Instar
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 05:47 PM
Very nice.
You should remove the second GFCI and save it for some place where it will do some good. Replace it with a regular outlet. The entire series is protected with the first GFCI. In other words, if you have 4 double outlets in a series and the GFCI is the closest to the panel box, all the rest after them will also recieve GFCI protection. If the GFCI outlet is the last one in the series, it only works for itself and the others are not protected. Thats the same (priciple) as if you replace a breaker in your breaker box with a breaker style GFCI (pricey). It protects the whole line of outlets that are wired to it.
RobertG
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 08:14 PM
Larry I had all these GFI Plugs Already, so I chose to just use them. Had I had to buy them you betcha. Would of been 1 per box. $$$ 11.00 A Plug. Ooch! Used 6 all across like this, 2 per box , each has 20 Amp dedicated circuit. If one goes it only effects those two plugs, other wired hot (6 seperate circuits). It is alot of protection can say overkill!! When I bought my house the contractor left a box full of electrical stuff. Freebies I Guess.. Knew I might use them someday.
Jimnorris
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 08:55 PM
Robert,
WOW what a set up!!!!!!!!!
Jim
Instar
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 10:49 PM
If the box has 4 plugs, two double GFCI's with a dedicated 20amp line per box, then you will have to bring the second plug connections from the same side as the incoming wire to have it work like that. Otherwise, if your incoming wires are to one side of the first GFCI and then off the second set of terminals on the other side to the next one, if the first one in the circuit blows, all 4 outlets go off.
RobertG
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 11:04 PM
Each one is wired to the Hot , Neutral, & Ground. They were installed by a friend of mine( electrician by trade). He had a GFCI Tester I played with it a bit. Each Double plug only trips itself. I Like this better than just one GFCI One trips it all. Thought it be little safer this way in regards to each appliance. I like being able to easily isolate a faulty circuit.
Robert
RobertG
Mon, 8th Mar 2004, 11:20 PM
New Pics With Unions. Still need 3 More Unions, 2 more bulkheads. Unions made this abit easier to plumb, little more time but worth it I can see. Unions were 1.90 Solvent 4.00 Threaded. Went with solvent. Also fired up the Tunze Stream. Installed the Multi controller W/ One Stream. Look at this Wave!!!! :-D 80% From 40%. Hope the pic shows justice for this. Another will be on the opposite side..
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