Sump/Refugium/Tank Idea

[manny]

This is what I've come up with of how I'm gonna upgrade my 30. I might get a 38 gallon or I may not. I'm not sure yet. They're exactly the same footprint but the 38 is 4 inches taller. I'm just not sure of the taller look. Neway, here's what I've come up with so far. Most of it is from this dude's (http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nano-reef.com%2Fdenkigroove%2F) web-site. Will this work?? Nebody with any sugestions?

[manny]

Here's a picture of the original 30 gal sump/refugium

[dan]

i think a ball valve would back up your overflow.you do'nt want that now do we?you want all the water coming over the overflow to flow freely to the sump.

[manny]

I forgot why I left that ball valve there but now I remember. It was cause of this:

Just a few questions:
Right now I have a 30 gallon long tank 50 lbs of live rock, two maxijet powerheads, a cpr hob skimmer, 40 lbs of live sand, and a 192 W pc light fixture. I'm living on the second floor of an apt. complex and was wondering if it would be ok to add a 10 or 20 gallon sump/refugium? Would this be too much weight? It's placed sitting in the corner of my living room if it matters.

Second part of first question:
If it is ok to add a sump/refugium considering the extra weight, would it be alright if I got a new 30 gallon, drilled the holes and everything and then capped em off until I could get a sump/refugium built and do all the plumbing after it's built?

Third question:
Anybody know if there's any aquarium specials (just the tank) goin on around town since it's Christmas right now?
From the second question I figured I could just run the pvc and close the ball valve completely until I had the sump and everything built. Then later on open it all the way. Would this be ok to do?

[Henry]

I would also remove the check valve on the return, unless you clean them on a regular basis they will fail. Also I would go with 3/4" tubing as opposed to the 1/2" that you have listed. Just becareful how you route the tubing to avoid pinching or kinking it.

Instead of the ballvalve on the drain, just plug the overflow bulkhead until you are ready to use it.

[manny]

Good point Josh. I could just leave it open and place a container under the pipe for any water that splashes over the edge. Henry, the 3/4" and the check valve are good points also. What could I use instead of a check valve? The 3/4", could plug straight into a scwd right? As for the overflow, I was thinking about adding two. What size pvc should I use for that? Also, with the design I have would it be loud (gurgling)?

[Henry]

You don't need anything to replace the check valve, just make sure that atleast one of the returns is just above the overflow to break the siphon. I think you should be fine with either 1" or 1.25" for the drains. To quiet the gurgling sound, a simple durso or stockman modification would help. I don't know about the sqwd, I'll let someone else answer that. I thinks its either 5/8" or 1/2"

[Henry]

Good point Josh, forgot about that.

[manny]

You don't need anything to replace the check valve, just make sure that atleast one of the returns is just above the overflow to break the siphon. I think you should be fine with either 1" or 1.25" for the drains. To quiet the gurgling sound, a simple durso or stockman modification would help. I don't know about the sqwd, I'll let someone else answer that. I thinks its either 5/8" or 1/2"

3/4" flex tubing will fit over the SCWD. Also, you'll need both of the returns to either have a siphon break hole or be up near the top of the water line since with the SCWD one output is almost completely shutdown.

I'm gonna have to read up on these. Dunno what you guys mean about the durso or stockman modification or the siphon break hole. I think I've read em somewhere but can't remember where. :?

[Henry]

A siphon break hole is just a small hole drilled into the return pipe just below the water line. That way whenever power is turned off and the water level falls the hole is exposed and breaks the siphon.

Here is the link for the durso (http://www.rl180reef.com/pages/standpipe/standpipe.htm)

[manny]

If I were to add a durso stand pipe, I'd have to drill a hole in the bottom of my tank and a hole in my stand? Would I need one or two?

[manny]

Just fyi. The pic with the tank and overflow isn't my tank. I might of confused some people. It's another guys I was hopin to copy but now I'm completely confused and not really sure what to do with my 30 gallon :? :?

By the way. I went to Alamo Aquatics and bought a brand new Oceanic 30 gallon tank today. I'm gonna start drilling it and everything once I come up with a final plan.

[manny]

Scratch that first idea about the overflow and returns. Here's what I've come up with now. Got most of it from here. (http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rl180reef.com%2F frames.htm) Will it work and fit? It uses a 1 " bulkhead drilled in the bottom of the tank with a 1 1/4 " durso standpipe. I still like the sump setup and everything plus what you guys have recommended. I'm just debating about the return (Where to drill a hole for it so it doesn't siphon back into my sump but also get some flow in areas I need it). Do I drill it way up at the top? Another question, can I have a single return and then a closed loop with two outputs running off a scwd?

Anybody have any diagrams of their drilled tanks? Might be a little easier.

[Henry]

Manny if you need ideas come on over. or anyone that wants to see a tank thats in its first months of life and not yet complete come on over, I could use some more ideas.

[Instar]

Manny, you should not need to cap the overflow as there should be no water in the overflow box until you are ready to use it. It will also get "stale" in there. If the anti-siphon holes do not work, that configuration does not allow enough reserve to keep from flooding. (You don't need an anti-siphon hole on the "off" side of a SCWD because there is always positive pressure in the line.) I don't depend on those siphon holes b/c they don't always work. Sometimes they just suck a stream of air bubbles back into the water as the tank rapidly siphons out, and when you need them the most, a snail will be over it. Remember Murphy's Law?

[manny]

HAHA, Murphy's Law...I've never thought of the snail thing happening before Larry. With my luck and living in an apartment that would probly end up happening. When you mention not having enough reserve are you talking about the new configuration with the durso or the old one? And about the stale water, Josh had mentioned that earlier so I think I'm just gonna get everything drilled. Get my plumbing and everything done and have my sump ready and do it all at the same time instead of seperately.
As for that offer Henry, I'm gonna take you up on it. I'll probly go check out your setup when I get back sometime after the 1st if thats ok

[Instar]

Manny, no I meant if you do back siphon during a power failure or maint procedure, with the little end where the return pump sits there is not enough space for an inch of water to drain into it from the main tank. It really depends on the walls of the sump and how much volume there is from normal to the top rim of the sump tank. Looks really close to me.

[Henry]

Manny just let me know. Also just as Larry said, make sure you have enough space in reserve for the excess water when your pumps are off.